Approximately 26 kilometres away from my hometown, Kandy is and will always be my favourite city.
No matter how many times I walk the thresholds of the Temple of Tooth Relic, feed the already fat Tilapias in the Kandy Lake, or sit in a café watching the monsoon rain pour down with vengeance, I can never get enough of this beatific city.
When in need of a getaway, I often select the “Three Temples” of Kandy. Even though all three belong to the Gampola era; Gadaladeniya, Ambakka and Lankathilake temples are polar opposites in structural design.
My knowledge of architecture can fit in a thimble, but I am fascinated that Gadaladeniya resembles certain features of Indian shrines, while Lankathilake is quite similar to structures seen in the Pollonnaruwa era. Ambakka on the other hand is almost completely made of wood and is altogether a completely different kettle of fish.
Gadaladeniya or more accurately ‘Gadaladeniya Rajamaha Viharaya’ is an ancient monastery resting in Diggala, a city 13 kilometres away from Kandy. Dating back to the mid-1300s, it is believed that this temple was constructed by a South Indian Architect. Mixed with local architecture, it is one of my favourite places to haunt on sunny weekends.
Amongst all, the dragon arch framing the seated Buddha statue and the stupas stand out. The main stupa is shielded by a gable roof erected on four pillars. It is also surrounded by four smaller stupas facing the four cardinal directions. The shrine is beneath the stupas and is a quite distinctive erection compared to many stupas I have visited on the island.
Situated in Udunuwara – a mere half an hour drive from Kandy, Lankathilake Temple in my opinion is one of the most sophisticated architectural creations. Walking barefoot on the stone stairways is soothing and washes me off of my human miseries. The splendid view from these cool, granite steps almost always clears away my writer’s block. The devalas, the shrine, the Bo tree and the temple are my secret fix to a few hours of spiritual bliss.
While penning this I stopped for a moment to ponder about the perfect introduction to Ambakka. At times words cannot really do justice and there are creations that deserve more than just a digital nook in the cyber space. Ambakka is famous for its intricate and elaborate wood carvings. Dedicated to the influential deity, God Kataragama it is a fascinating combination of religious devotion and ingenious creativity.
The temple consists of three main expanses. The shrine, the dance hall and the drummer’s hall. I wouldn’t bore you with the functions of each but instead tell you how magnificent the wood carvings are.
Except the shrine the test of the temple is entirely made of wood. Pillars, doors, roofs and rafters all are made of wood and are covered with breathtakingly beautiful carvings. These carvings include the entangled bull and the elephant, the mythical elephant lion, the celestial musician who is said to be part human, part bird, lotus flowers, Angam fighters, goddesses and countless other mythical, ethereal and human portrayals. I cannot tell you the number of times I walked through these intricate works of art.
Finally I’d like to say, don’t take my word for it. If you are already in Kandy flag a Tuk Tuk and see it with your own eyes. (If it is too much work, just ring up Rediscover Sri Lanka – they like organising things). Once you do, leave us a comment. I am dying to know what you think of these amazing places that captured my wandering heart.
