Back Roads of Sri Lanka

Day 01

From Bandaranaike International Airport, arrive at Negombo, a picturesque city blessed with not only the ocean but also a beautiful lagoon. Unwind and revive at the hotel as you bask in Sri Lankan hospitality. Pick your bike, the companion that will accompany you in the next 15 days; fine-tune your cycling gear and the equipment while the sun sets over the tinted horizon. Get acquainted with fellow aficionados at the tour briefing and share snippets of your previous cycling adventures over dinner and drinks as you prepare yourself for an island adventure.

Day 02

Start the first day of your cycle ride exploring the coastal villages of Negombo, buzzing and eventful in its own charming way. Meet the west coast fishing communities as they bring up their fresh catch to the shore which is teeming with potential buyers and the curious alike.

From tarmac roads to dirt tracks, paddle your way into the quieter inner villages off Negombo. Laced with paddy fields, coconut trees and home gardens filled with tropical fruit they replace the hustle of the city with a much needed tranquillity.

Stop for lunch at a local restaurant. Replenish the spent energy before you enter the bygone kingdom of Anuradhapura. Join the white clad devotees at the sacred Bodhi tree and maha stupa, two places which are of paramount importance to Buddhists. Invoke the blessings, experience the serenity, the mindfulness and the awareness preached in Buddhism. A fitting start to the journey ahead and retire straight to Gamodh Citadel Hotel for the night.

Day 03

Anuraphapura, a historic stronghold for almost 7 centuries and still relishing in its ancient glory is indeed a place to behold.

Abundant with man-made lakes and well preserved ancient remains all of which are interconnected with a maze of pathways that are idyllic for riding. Longstanding citadels, monasteries that housed thousands of Buddhist monks, stupas, ponds, sculptures, stone pillars and elaborate stone carvings are all spread through a vast parkland that your two wheels can easily conquer.

Lunch will be served by a local farming family, in midst of growing paddy fields. Dip your aching feet in a cool stream, sit under a shady tree and enjoy this season’s rice and vegetables sprinkled with Sri Lankan conviviality.

End the day with a visit to Mihintale temple. The path to the shrine is paved with millennia old carved stone steps lined up with Frangipani trees and black monkeys inhabiting the trees. Feel serenity at its best.

Day 04

Cycle through the now familiar flat-terrain prevalent to the dry zone. The route from Anuradhapura to Avukana is hemmed with endless paddy fields, reservoirs and a web of irrigation canals that provide shelter to numerous aquatic, migratory and other bird species. Stop by a roadside boutique to enjoy steamed corn, other local chow and a cup of Ceylon tea.

Out of many stone carved Buddha statues scattered all over the island Avukana Buddha statue is recognised for its sophisticated craftsmanship. Enjoy a picnic lunch at the temple before you pack off to the Dambulla Royal Cave temple. Well-known for vibrant cave paintings, statues of Buddha and other deities this olden cave complex is a well preserved instance of Sri Lankan architectural brilliance.

Day 05

Christened as the eighth wonder of the world by the locals, Sigiriya rock fortress was home to the regional king ‘Kasyapa’. A man of violent nature yet a true connoisseur of arts, the remnants of Kasyapa’s royal palace includes an ancient water fountain system, beautiful frescoes and a polished wall filled with inscriptions of the amazed visitors from its glorified days. Cycle around the magnificent rock feasting your eyes from a number of angles.

The route from Habarana to Sigiriya will provide you an unadulterated glimpse of the rural island life as fields are replaced by chena (shifting) cultivations and visibly denser jungle patches sheltering many elephants. It’s Elephant country after all.
After 4 days of sore feet you may choose to unwind indulging in a body massage at an ayurvedic spa, walk around the villages to get a better experience of rustic country life or a short safari to acquaint yourself with the bristling Sri Lankan wildlife.

Day 06

Wasgamuwa made its highlight as one of the best national parks to espy the majestic behemoth, the Asian elephant. Quieter, discrete and isolated, it is one of the few places where you could be one with the nature. The ride from Dambulla to Wasgamuwa trails through acres of farmland that supplies vegetables to one third of the country. You might be able to stop for some coconut water or savour succulent watermelons right from the farmyard.

Following the afternoon meal, grab your camera and prepare yourself to marshal some treasured memories. A safari in the Wasgamuwa national park is the best course to forget human existence and connect intimately and extensively with nature and its magnificent beasts.

Day 07

Day 07 is significant considering that you will be leaving the temperate zones and entering the pleasing microclimates of hill country. The smooth tarmac road will guide you through thicker and lustrous greenery as the Minipe irrigational canal makes her silent journey parallelly on to your left/right side. Along the way you can easily discern the Knuckles mountain range, aptly named as its peaks and folds resemble a clenched fist. Vast enough to border two neighbouring districts this mountain range is a haven for endemic flora and fauna.

Add a last touch to an impeccable day by taking into a boat and float in the pristine waters of Mapakada Lake whilst the wilderness and mountains provide you with an exquisite backdrop. To conclude the day, it’s laughter and sundowners beneath the painted sky.

Day 08

It is time to say hello to the hills. The morning ride is a steady uphill climb as you pass the Loggal-oya, a natural lake which supplies water to its namesake reservoir. You will be passing the legendary Victoria Dam and water reserve; a massive hydro-electric project funded by the aids granted from the United Kingdom. You might encounter a wandering elephant straying from the nearby wildlife sanctuary. Naturally morose and ill-tempered it is best to steer clear of their usual paths.

You will arrive in the hill capital otherwise known as Kandy, with a heart full of scenic mountain views and plenty of time to spare at a local bar.

Day 09

You are in the beautiful hill capital, a city where now meets then. Leave behind your bike for the day and pay respects at the Temple of the Scared Tooth Relic. The highest place of worship for Buddhists around the world, this ancient temple enshrines the left canine tooth of Gautama Buddha. A UNESCO World Heritage Site brimming with cultural and architectural value.

The daily ritual perfumed for the sacred tooth relic; known as ‘theva’ is a juxtaposition of colours, sounds, faith, a way of life and history. Visit the museum if you feel like immersing yourself in the Kandyan history or the four devalas apportioned to deities that are believed to be the protectors of Buddhism and its followers.

Stroll through the city mall, walk or take a boat ride around the lake, browse the tiny souvenir and craft shops, tea centres, high end gems and jewellers, and flavour an assortment of restaurants, cafés, and pubs all within the city limits.

Day 10

Start off at the University of Peradeniya, a renowned residential state university in Sri Lanka. Regarded as one of the most beautiful universities in the world this academy is bursting with enchanting landscapes.

The journey to Gampola encompasses a stretch of a busy motorway that’ll become quieter and peaceful in no time. Your heels will feel the ascent characteristic to the hill country as you pedal through an endless sheet of tea plantations and stunning views. The last 10 kilometres are a swift descent with even better landscapes that will offset the uphill struggle.

A local restaurant will provide a delicious meal before you head off to your abode for the night; a planter’s bungalow in Norwood. With the setting sun visit the Norwood Tea Factory. Feel the delicate aroma of fresh tea leaves fill your lungs while discovering the well kept secrets behind blending the best black tea in the world.

Day 11

Shoots with two to three leaves and one new bud!

Get into it and learn the art of harvesting the finest tea from the professionals before you board the “tea train”. The route from Hatton to Nanuoya is considered as one of the most picturesque and delightful train journeys in the world. Slow to a fault this train ensures that you do not miss out the stunning bluey mountains, silvery waterfalls and jade shaded tea estates.
Grab lunch as you pass Nuwara-Eliya. Known as ‘Little England”, this lovely city is peppered with colonial era bungalows and Tudor style buildings influenced by British and Scottish tea forerunners.

From Nuwara Eliya to Hatton is a scenic downhill ride over a route littered with waterfalls and tea and some more tea.
Return to Norwood via Castlereigh Reservoir, famous for its aquamarine waters surrounded by alpine woodlands that create an astounding view as the sun sets in the west.

Day 12

Today you are heading towards Balangoda via Bogawanthalawa. Keep your eyes peeled for more mountains, waterfalls, hairpin bends, dense montane wildernesses that remind you of Nordic forests, which are in fact parts of national parks and wildlife sanctuaries in the area. Don’t forget to check the brakes of your wheels as you will experience a descent of almost 30 kilometres before you reach Balangoda for lunch.

You can relax on the way from Balangoda to Udawalawe, in where you will visit Sri Lanka’s first elephant transit home. Established in 1995 by the Wild life Conservation Department the transit home provides refuge to the wounded, orphaned calves where they grow up and taken care of with minimum human interaction before being released into various national parks. The feeding time of these mammoth babies are not just picture-worthy but will definitely stir the humane in you.

Day 13

Begin the day by exploring Udawalawe, an area not short of appeal despite being in the dry-zone. The Udawalawe reservoir built across the river ‘Walawe’ is a principal habitat for aquatic birds. The sugarcane plantations around Sevanagala Sugar Factory provides livelihood to many whist being engaged in production of sugar, potable alcohol (ethyl), ethanol, power generation and bio-compost. Udawalawe is also a popular camping site which is an emerging past-time for the islanders.

We have reserved the afternoon for a fairly planned wildlife encounter. At the Udawalawe National Park apart from elephants, you might be able to confront water buffaloes, deer, bear, crocodiles, wild boar and even the ever elusive Sri Lankan leopard if they are in the mood of acknowledging you. The varied species of birds including large birds of prey too can distract you. Make sure not to be too overwhelmed and forget those must-take-photographs.

Day 14

Head towards Embilipitiya trailing the irrigation canals from Udawalawa reservoir as they enliven non paddy crops like banana before heading off to cater various other zones in Sri Lanka distressed by water paucity. Throughout this journey the birds may perhaps keep you company as they glide from one body of water to another.

After an average 125 kilometre ride you will reach your hotel in Unwatuna, Galle. Put up your weary feet and relish the nightfall with a desired brew in hand as the sun slides down the beautiful southern horizon.

Day 15

Galle is an archaic city. The city is surrounded by a fort with impenetrable but time-worn walls built by the Portuguese at the end of the 16th century and then reinforced by the Dutch in the 17th century. The ramparts that surround the Old Town is one of the main reasons that enabled Galle to claim its place as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Within this colonial town you can shop to your heart’s content at the small shops and boutiques spread across the fort. Not only they boast of fine-looking expatriate architecture, but you may find atypical clothing, footwear, paintings and jewellery and crafts. Don’t forget to utilise your haggling skills as some these might be quite expensive.

If you are more architecturally inclined, you can choose to walk along the ramparts, visit the Old Lighthouse, clock tower and the museums which are right down your alley.

As you wrap up an awe-inspiring 14 days, meet your fellow travellers one last time for dinner and drinks and to buoyantly plan your next adventure.

Day 16

Before you know it your island adventure has come to an end. If you are blatantly, unashamedly and unapologetically in love with this island paradise and yearning for yet another escapade click on Far Off Things and we will tell you what we have in store for you. If not today it is a matter of ‘someday’. Sri Lanka does that to you, so why not today?